Payment amounts are based on several factors including the 4 C’s (cut, colour, clarity and carat as well as the condition of the diamond (eg. chips, cracks etc….) Our diamond experts will base the payout amount on these factors. It is important to know that when selling your diamond, our payouts are based on the wholesale market value of your diamond. Jewelers mark up diamonds anywhere from 100 – 1000% over wholesale prices. Please take this into consideration if you are thinking about selling your diamond.

If your diamond is a brilliant round cut diamond, a typical diameter for a 0.25ct is 4.1mm. Princess cut diamonds are usually around 3.5mm in diameter but sizes can vary. Other cuts of diamonds do vary in diameter so it is very hard to give a proper example for these types of diamonds. If you are unsure of your diamond size, you are welcome to send it in to us. One of our grading experts will be able to determine its characteristics.

If you are unsure of the authenticity of your diamond, the number one way to determine if your diamond is real is to get an independent appraisal from a certified gemologist. Appraisers typically charge between $35.00 – $75.00 for this service. If the appraisal cost is too much, there are a few other tests that can be done. While these tests do help, they by no means 100% guarantee the authenticity of the diamond.

– fog test: place the diamond in front of your mouth and fog it similar to trying to fog a mirror. If the stone remains fogged for over a couple of seconds, it is a fake. An authentic diamond disperses heat instantly so by the time you look at your stone after fogging, it will be cleared up. Please be aware that while this test is effective, things like oil and dirt on the diamond can effect its accuracy. Please make sure your stone is very clean when doing this test. Also, if the stone is a doublet (top part diamond epoxied to a cubic zirconia) this test will fail.

– transparency test: if you have a loose stone, place it upside down over some newsprint. If you can clearly read the newsprint underneath the stone, it’s not a diamond. An exception to this test would be a diamond that is cut shallow as some of these diamonds can be read through.

– u.v. test: many (not all) diamonds give off a blue fluorescence when placed under an ultra violet (black) light. Since 99% of fake stones don’t do this, an indication of medium to strong blue under this light would indicate your stone is most likely a diamond. While this does help to determine that your stone is a diamond it also means that your diamond is worth less. Diamonds with a blue fluorescence are around 20% less valuable. Just remember, the lack of blue fluorescence does not mean it’s fake, it may just mean that you have a better quality diamond.

– loupe test: if you have a magnifying glass (10x or greater), there are a few things you can look for that may give away the stones identity.

a. when looking at the stone under magnification, look carefully at your stone to see if you detect any flaws (eg. carbon, feathers, small cracks). These are usually good indications that your stone is a real diamond since it is extremely hard to put inclusions into a fake stone.

b. examine the girdle (the side part of the diamond separating the top from the bottom) to see if it is frosty or faceted. If so, this is a clear sign it is real. If it is waxy like or slick looking, chances are it’s a fake.

c. examine the stone from the top and notice the facets (cuts on the top of the diamond). The facets should be sharply joined together. If they looked rolled together, it is likely a fake.

d. after looking at the stone, examine the stamps on the piece of jewelry (if applicable). A jewelry stamp of 10k, 14k, 18k, 585, 750, 900, 950 etc… indicate the setting is real gold or platinum. This will give a better chance that the stone is real as well. However, if you do happen to see a “C.Z.” stamp this would indicate a cubic zirconia stone.